The Chilkoot Trail

DAY 1: August 1996. Even on the warmest days, travel over the water in Alaska is a chilling experience. Bill and I set out from Haines on a shuttle to the portal town of Skagway. The weather is cloudy, damp, and drizzling. Not exactly perfect backpacking weather but we have got gold fever. We arrive at Skagway. Unlike the early panners, we pick up our backcountry permit at the Park Service and buy fuel at a local hardware store. Many elderly tourist line the small streets. They stare at the over loaded packs and snicker at our gold pans. I explained to one man that "We are fixin to get rich". With a chuckle, he wishes us the best of luck.

We head out on the dirt road to the city of Dyea, 9 miles north of Skagway. For a small fee of ten dollars per person one can take a shuttle to the trail head. Bill and I opted not to shuttle, hell we are here to backpack and experience the plight of the gold miners (not to mention we are frugal). After 6 miles, a kindly Skagway resident offered us a ride. She dropped us off at the actual site of the city Dyea, about a mile past the trail head. One must search the high grass to spot any remnants of buildings and past structures. On April 3, 1898 an avalanche near Sheep Camp killed about 60 people. Their names and demise are etched in wood as their epitaph.  The tidal flats bear little trace of the madness that occurred here a century ago. Only puffins and sea lions populate the once hectic estuary of the Taiya River. The Taiya River is a glacier fed source that flows milky green. Loaded with glacier silt, the water is good to drink but rough on water filters. A few pack adjustments, pictures and Bill and I are on our way.

The trail before us plunges into lush, coast rain forest of birch, poplar, spruce, and fir. Thick banks of ferns and broad leafed plants line the trail as it winds past the Taiya River. Black bear scat is frequent and loaded with grass, berry pits, and bear bells : ) The trail starts out steep and levels off. We cross bridges and mud bogs. We got on trail about 4 in the afternoon. We hike about 5 miles in to Finnegan's Point. Here they have a cooking shelter and plenty of camp sites. As night falls we find were the only ones who camped at Finnegan's Point this evening.

DAY 2:
The weather is cooperative today. Cloudy but warm. Our goal today is to reach Sheep Camp at mile 13. Sheep Camp is the last camping area before crossing the pass. With only an 8 mile day and 20 hours of daylight, we have plenty of time to explore. After a hearty breakfast of oatmeal and trail mix we continue on the trail. Our first stop, a fast moving river that appears to be gleaming with gold. If I was a nugget, this is where I would live. Armed with pans and patients we begin to pan, and pan, and pan some more. Hikers came and went. I thought I heard a few chuckles. All said and done we walked away with a few flakes and a bit more respect for the early adventurers. We continued on towards Canyon City. This is the location of the mouth of the Taiya River. It was a permanent settlement where construction of a tramway PowerStation was built. This tram hauled supplies to the summit. The city was a prosperous town with over 24 businesses including outfitters, taverns, hotels, and barber shops. Within a year it was deserted. They left behind much of the hardware used to run the trams. A boiler is shown to the right. This tram ran 7 miles over the pass and contained the longest cable span in the world at 2200 feet. The tram pumped cargo into the Yukon at 9 tons per hour for those with the money.  Bill ponders whether to fire it up or move on. We took a few side trails out of Canyon City and saw an impressive amount of discarded relics and history. Our next stop is Pleasant Camp, mile 10.5. This area is so named as this is one of the first place with level ground north of Canyon City. It makes for a pleasant camp area.  We cross a long suspension bridge and are on our way. Pleasant Camp offered a place to stop and rest. We don't stay long and begin our last 2.5 miles to Sheep Camp. Sheep Camp is the traditional stopping place before the pass. At its peak 4000-8000 stampeders would cram into the area. Much more than the 20 or so campers here on this night. This was as far as most animals would travel. Horses were often abandon here and shot. Bone remains are frequent on the trail. Dysentery raged through the camps spreading disease and death. Many provisions were left behind here when stampeders realized the pass that was ahead of them. An old stove was left behind complete with canned goods and other utensils. Despite the convenient appliances, I decide our portable cooking stoves will work just fine. We set up camp and make dinner. We rest, for tomorrow we cross the pass and head for Canada.